Cameras in Depth: Plain Glass Viewfinders

This is the first article dedicated to the relationship between what we see in a camera viewfinder and our mental processes to compose and take a picture. In this first article I’ll show you some differences between cameras with plain glass viewfinder, without other focusing aids like microprism spot or split image stigmometer (except the possible presence of a rangefinder). These aids will be the subject of the next article.

First of all, when you are focusing on a plain glass you might concentrate mainly on the composition without worrying to obtain a precise focus. Take for example one of the most basic SLR camera, the legendary Zenit E, with a focusing screen made by a simple matte glass. This system doesn’t allow a precise distance adjustment, but this is not important especially shooting outdoor in a bright day, when using a narrow aperture you are assured to have a more than sufficient deep of field. The advantage of this system is undeniable: it is easy to compose even when the main subject is not positioned in the center of the frame. In fact, when you have a central focusing aid like a split image rangefinder, a stigmometer or a microprism spot, you are always tempted to place the subject at the center of the image, and then instinctively to take a photo in this position (it is uncommon to change the composition after have focused). The Zenit E viewfinder doesn’t contain other information (like shutter speed and aperture), avoiding any distraction. You can concentrate only on your composition! There is only one limitation with this camera: the diaphragm must be closed manually, and this does not allow you to take pictures with sufficient rapidity (this is not a camera to search for the “decisive moment”). Finally remember that the viewfinder is rather dark, compared to more expensive cameras, so it is a little difficult to focus in low light conditions.

Here are two photos I took with this camera with a b/w roll: moments of relax or studying on the shores of “my” lake in my city, Como:

They deserve an applause, some of these photos taken with this camera: I choose them, adding for the occasion a touch of color: Beautiful photos of hands… and thanks for all these film rolls that you are offering me… in return I offer you a coffee or an ice cream, but eat it quickly, otherwise it melts in your hands!

The second camera that I’ll review is my beautiful Zorki 4, a Russian copy of the famous Leica rangefinder. The viewfinder is very bright and allows you to compose and focus in every light condition, thanks to a well contrasted rangefinder. Even with this camera you will not see any exposure information, completely unnecessary during daylight hours when you can use the “rule of 16” for times and aperture preset. The viewfinder coverage is designed for a standard 50mm lens (if you use different focal lengths you need to mount an additional viewfinder on the flash slide). If you use the rangefinder, you will tend to put the subject in the center, whereas if you’re focusing using the hyperfocal rule, you’ll feel free to compose as you like. It is a lovely “no frills” camera: simple, immediate, and great for street photography – great for immortalizing the right moment! Just remember that there is a small parallax error not compensated in the viewfinder. Take it into account when you are taking a portrait, or for short distance photos. Unlike Zenit E, which allows you (like many SLR cameras) to evaluate the depth of field, in the Zorki 4 viewfinder you will always see everything in focus. A great advantage to take pictures on the fly!

Here are some of my street photos, taken with this camera:

And here are some colorful, joyful, bright and sunny summer photos taken by the Lomo community!

Now it is the time to analyse the tiny Minox GT-S, (its viewfinder is almost identical to those of similar models, like the GT, GT-X and the EL in the photo below). This camera uses a simple plain glass viewfinder without any aids to estimate focus (the right distance must be estimate by the photographer). Of course, using a sufficient small aperture taking advantage of the good depth of field of its average wide angle lens, you can have a good focusing except in low light conditions. On the right side of the viewfinder there is a needle indicating the shutter speed, a useful aid to avoid blurred pictures. For those who are used to reading from left to right, the position of the exposure meter leads you to compose first and then check the shutter time (my preferred sequence). As for the Zorki 4, in the viewfinder we always see everything in focus, and again there aren’t aids to correct the parallax error. This one, however, is smaller than in the Russian camera for the shortest distance between the viewfinder and the lens.

I used this camera to immortalize a a rock concert, charging it with a fast film (ISO 3200):

Here is a selection of your nice photos:

Now I write some notes about the legendary Lomo LC-A, in its original Russian version with the information about the focus zone in the viewfinder. Everyone likes this camera for its immediate and instinctive use, and the few but very useful information in the viewfinder are really appreciated by all. Starting from the two red LEDs, which respectively indicate the battery status and the risk of blurred photos due to slow times, up to the line for the correction of the (small) parallax error. The wide angle Minitar 1 lens allows you to have almost always an excellent depth of field, and the information about the distance in the bottom part of the viewfinder allow you to quickly check the focus distance, with its very intuitive symbols.

I’ll show you a couple of my street shots, before passing to some color photos of the community:

A nice camera to always carry with you! Congratulations for these beautiful photos full of joy of living … I’m wishing it’s always summer!

The Olympus XA2, my cute little egg is for me an alternative to the Lomo LC-A as a camera to use everywhere when you want to travel lightweight. In the viewfinder you have no information, except a green LED that indicates the risk of blur due to slow times and another signal, that I never used, which indicate that the external flash unit is ready to fire. There are also some simple lines to delimit the frame. This beautiful and bright viewfinder, even in backlight, allows you to frame without errors and without distractions.

Here two photos I took at a Color Run held in Milan a couple of years ago. Keep in mind, that unlike the LC-A, there is no information in the viewfinder on the focus distance.

Praiseworthy and joyful, spontaneous and colorful, I present you four beautiful portraits taken by some community lomofriends:

The next camera, more complete, is the rare Lomo Elektra 112, a Russian camera very similar to the Yashica Electro. A nice aperture-priority rangefinder camera with a wonderful bright viewfinder, with moving frames to compensate the parallax error. In the top of the viewfinder there are two LEDs: the red one to indicate the risk of overexposure (the maximum shutter speed is 1/500 second and could not suffice with the diaphragm fully open), and a yellow one to indicate the risk of blurred photos (slow shutter time). I enjoy very much these few but essential information: I am always sure that I don’t make parallax errors and if I see an LED on I have only to turn the aperture ring before shooting! Great to capture the “decisive moment”!

A very pleasant camera to use, fun like these Luna Park rides!

This camera was produced in very few pieces (about forty thousand, because it was too expensive for Russian people), so it is hard to find on the market. Also uploaded photos here are quite rare: Congratulations anyway for your brilliant colors!

The small and light Olympus 35 RC is one of my preferred rangefinder camera, as it is characterized by a razor-sharp optics. In the viewfinder you can read both the shutter speed (which you set with the wheel on the upper part of the camera), and the aperture (if you work in time-priority mode, this is automatically calculated by the exposure meter). If in this mode the shutter time chosen doesn’t allow you to have a diaphragm aperture between 2.8 and 22, the exposure meter needle moves into the red zone on the left and the shutter button is automatically locked, to avoid pictures too underexposed or too overexposed (of course, you can avoid this lock using the camera in full manual mode). Honestly I don’t like this shutter button lock, but with little care, setting first set the shutter speed according to the light conditions, I can avoid to end up in this lock state, avoiding the risk to miss an important picture. Honestly I never watch the value of the shutter speed at the top, and rarely check the aperture on the bottom part scale. With a little experience you can leave it all to the camera simply by setting an appropriate time to the light conditions. A well contrasted rangefinder, combined with some fixed lines on the frame to compensate the parallax error (very small to due the extreme closeness of the lens to the viewfinder), make this camera one of my favorites. Yes, the viewfinder is smaller than in other similar cameras (Lomo Elektra 112, Canonet QL17), with a smaller magnification (0,6), but this is not too important in a camera born for street photography, born to take photos on the fly!

Using it is fun and relaxing as practicing yoga!

Here are some community summertime photos taken in beautiful places: these seascapes are very relaxing!

The last camera in this article is a Canon rangefinder, the Canonet QL17 GIII . Unlike earlier Canonet models, which had the needle exposure meter at the top of the viewfinder, this model has is on the right side (my favorite position as I have explained previously). In the viewfinder you will find: a well contrasted rangefinder, moving frames to correct the parallax error, and an exposure meter needle showing the aperture, when this machine works in time-priority mode (it works also in full manual mode). The needle falls into the red zones at the ends of the exposure scale in the case of an incorrect setting of the shutter speed, with the locking of the shutter button like in the Olympus 35 RC. Even here, with a little experience you can get around this limitation. The viewfinder is larger than those of the Olympus 35 RC, with a bigger magnification, allowing you to better observe every detail of the scene.

A lovely camera for street photography, and a nice camera also for shooting indoors! Using it feels like doing some joyful jump together with these nice gymnasts!

Congratulations to you for these beautiful portraits or body details taken with this camera!

Hey dear lomofriend, at this point I’m curious: what is your favorite viewfinder? Meanwhile, continue to follow, the next article will be dedicated to a comparison between some SLR camera viewfinders. Lomo On!

Cameras-in-Depth is a series dedicated to a comparison between film cameras, illustrating some hidden details to help you to choose the right camera for you!

written by sirio174 on 2016-05-11 #gear #review #zenit-e #viewfinder #canonet-ql17-giii #olympus-xa2 #zorki-4 #lomo-lc-a #regular-contributor #lomo-elektra-112 #olympus-35rc #minox-gts #focusing-screen #cameras-in-depth
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